Sailing Douglas Mawson Through the Greek Isles: An AE Expeditions Diary

Last updated: 26 August 2026

Before sailing with AE Expeditions, expedition cruising was not something I had ever imagined doing. Expedition cruising was something I knew about but had never properly experienced for myself. I had spent a night onboard their Greg Mortimer in Aberdeen, which gave me a good introduction to the ships. But a ship visit and an actual expedition turn out to be two very different things.

So when the chance came up to join Douglas Mawson in Greece, I took it. She is the newest ship from AE Expeditions, part of Aurora Expeditions. Seven days on a Greek island cruise from Crete to Athens finally showed me what this style of travel is about.

Our Greek Islands itinerary

What is an expedition cruise in the Greek Islands actually like?

The biggest difference I noticed was the destination focus, and it took me a couple of days to properly understand what that means in practice.

On a mainstream cruise, the ship can be as much of a destination as the places you visit. You find yourself thinking about which restaurant to try, what show is on that evening, or which activity to do next. On an expedition cruise in the Greek Islands I thought far more about where we were heading. What we were going to learn, and what we would experience once we got there.

That isn’t to say there’s nothing to enjoy onboard, because there absolutely is. The ship simply feels like a very comfortable base for exploring rather than the main attraction. By the middle of the week I had stopped thinking of it as the holiday at all.

It also means being ready for the unexpected, as I found out on the day we were supposed to be in Mykonos. But the week started somewhere far more predictable.

Starting the adventure in Chania, Crete

My trip began with an overnight stay in Chania, arriving just before 5pm the day before we boarded. I stayed at Pandora Suites in Chania Old Town, a small family-run hotel in a fantastic location. The room felt modern while still keeping a traditional Greek style, and the staff could not have been friendlier.

That evening I met the rest of our group and we headed out for dinner overlooking the harbour and lighthouse. A gyros in Greece with a view like that is a pretty good way to start a week.

Chania reminded me slightly of Rhodes Old Town, somewhere I know well, and I loved the atmosphere straight away. The following morning gave us more time to explore. I walked out towards the lighthouse for the views of the sea crashing against the rocks, then headed back into town for a moussaka at lunch. After that it was finally time to board, and the next morning we woke further along the coast of Crete.

Exploring Crete: Plaka and the Vassilakis Estate

Our first full day of exploring took us into Crete, including one of my favourite stops of the whole trip.

The views across to Spinalonga

Plaka is a small coastal village with incredible views out across the water towards Spinalonga. If you haven’t come across that island before, it is worth knowing about.

Spinalonga is a small fortified island just off the Cretan coast. The Venetians built the fortress there in the 16th century, but it is best known for what came later. From 1903 until 1957 it served as one of Europe’s last leper colonies, and hundreds of people lived out their lives on it. You might also recognise the name from Victoria Hislop’s novel The Island, which is set there.

Boats run across from Plaka if you want to explore it properly. Even from the shore it is a striking thing to look at, and knowing the history makes it more so.

A morning at the Vassilakis Estate

From there we continued to the Vassilakis Estate, where we toured the olive production facilities and learnt how olive oil is actually made. Then came a modern take on ancient Greek wine, served with fruit and nuts.

We drove past Lake Voulismeni later in the day before heading back to Douglas Mawson. There was still free time once we returned, so I had lunch onboard, explored a little more and went down to the beach to cool off. That balance held all week. The days could be packed with experiences and information, and there was still time to slow down and enjoy the ship. The following morning we were somewhere I thought I knew well.

Discovering Lindos in Rhodes

Next came Rhodes, an island I have visited quite a few times, although somehow I had never made it to Lindos. That made this the excursion I was most looking forward to. On the drive over, our guide talked us through more of the island’s history and culture, which set the morning up well.

Walking up to the Acropolis of Lindos

Lindos is lovely in its own right, a maze of narrow lanes and whitewashed houses built around the base of an enormous rock. But the main attraction is what sits on top of it.

We walked up to the Acropolis, which stands around 115 metres above the sea. At the top you’ll find the remains of the Temple of Athena Lindia, dating back to the 4th century BC. The Great Stoa and the ancient theatre sit alongside it. The history is fascinating, and having our guide explain it as we went made a real difference to how much of it stuck.

But it is the views that really stop you. You look straight down over St Paul’s Bay on one side and out across the Aegean on the other, and photos don’t quite manage it.

It is a proper climb rather than a gentle stroll. Go in the morning before the heat builds, take plenty of water and wear something with decent grip. The steps and cobbles have been worn smooth over the years and you notice it most on the way back down.

Even somewhere I thought I knew well could still surprise me, and Rhodes has far more to it than the resorts most people see. Our late departure meant we could enjoy the island into the evening too, before an overnight sail to the island everyone had been waiting for.

Santorini: one of my favourite days of the trip

Then came Santorini, another tender port on our voyage.

Akrotiri: the town the volcano buried

Our day began at Akrotiri, and it deserves more attention than it usually gets.

Akrotiri was a Minoan town that the volcano buried when it erupted around 1600 BC. The ash that destroyed it also preserved it, which is why so much of it is still standing today. You walk through actual streets, past buildings that stood several storeys high, with a drainage and plumbing system running underneath them.

The part I found most interesting is that nobody has ever found human remains on the site. The theory is that the people living there spotted the warning signs and left before the eruption hit, taking most of their valuables with them.

Nobody rediscovered any of it until 1860, when workers quarrying volcanic ash for the Suez Canal came across the ruins. Proper excavations only began in the 1960s. People often compare it to Pompeii and you can see why, although Akrotiri is considerably older.

The site sits under a modern roof with raised walkways, so you are out of the direct sun. It still gets very warm inside during the summer though, so take plenty of water and something to fan yourself with. We learnt more about the island’s volcanic history while we were there, and how much the landscape has changed over time.

Fira, Oia and the best sunset of the week

Afterwards they dropped us in Fira, and rather than stay put we decided to make our own way over to Oia.

We explored the blue-domed churches, the viewpoints and the windmills, stopped for a drink, and then took the public bus back towards Fira for around €2. I had heard plenty about how busy Oia can get, and there were several other ships in that day, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. We took the chance anyway and I am very glad we did, because it was far more manageable than I had anticipated.

The best part was still to come. We ate in Fira as the sunset began and took the cable car back down afterwards, and watching the sun disappear behind the mountains was magical. Then we tendered back to Douglas Mawson and headed straight for the hot tubs, where we caught the last of the light. As we sailed away, Santorini was still glistening in the distance. That is one of those moments that will stay with me for a very long time.

The next morning was the one that taught me the most, and it was the one that did not go to plan.

When Mykonos became Syros

One of the best examples of what expedition cruising is really about came when things didn’t go to plan.

We were supposed to visit Mykonos and I had been looking forward to the excursion. But the sea conditions meant we couldn’t tender ashore safely, and the forecast had it getting rougher through the day. Naturally there was some disappointment.

This was where the expedition side of AE Expeditions came into its own. While the team worked behind the scenes on an alternative, Cosima delivered a lecture on Greek mythology followed by a Q&A. Instead of sitting around wondering what would happen, we were still learning something relevant to where we were.

The team kept everyone updated before announcing our new destination, which turned out to be Syros. I had never even heard of it. Suddenly I was quite excited, because I was getting to tick another Greek island off my list and see somewhere I would never have chosen myself.

Why Syros ended up being such a great surprise

We had around five hours there, which was plenty of time to explore independently. The expedition team gave everyone ideas of what to see and do. The change had come too late to organise the kind of excursions we would normally have.

We walked up through the town to the Church of Saint Nicholas. Then we found a swimming spot where the water was unbelievably clear and so refreshing. The island itself was beautiful, and the colourful buildings scattered across the coastline reminded me slightly of the Amalfi Coast. It felt less touristy too, and nowhere near as busy as I had expected. Before heading back onboard I even squeezed in another quick swim close to where Douglas Mawson was waiting.

Would I have liked to do the excursion we had originally planned in Mykonos? Absolutely. But I had visited Mykonos before. I had never been to Syros, and without this trip I am not sure I ever would have thought to go.

That day summed up the most important thing I learnt all week, which is that you need to come with an open mind. Weather and sea conditions can change plans, and that is part of this style of travel. But sometimes the alternative becomes an experience you never expected at all.

After that, there was only the sail to Athens left.

Saying goodbye in Piraeus

The following morning I was up around 6am finishing my packing, with suitcases due outside our cabins by 7am. We arrived into Piraeus, the port for Athens, and disembarkation was incredibly smooth. As we left Douglas Mawson, the crew and expedition team stood waving everyone off before we headed for our transfer to the airport.

I was genuinely sad it was over. Greece has always felt like a second home, so leaving was never going to be easy. But this trip let me experience a country I already love in a completely different way.

So what did a week of it actually teach me?

Why the expedition team makes such a difference

Looking back at the whole week, the thing I had most underestimated was the expedition team. They aren’t simply there to organise excursions.

The team brings together people with different specialist skills and areas of knowledge. Between them they cover the history, culture, wildlife and environment of everywhere you visit. AE Expeditions runs an Expedition Team-to-expeditioner ratio of 1:7, which keeps the groups small. You can ask a question and get a proper answer rather than a rehearsed one.

The daily briefings

We had our first proper briefing on the evening we boarded, and they quickly became part of the routine. The team would look back over the day, often sharing photographs from the different excursions, before talking us through what was coming next.

That covered the destination itself, excursion timings, arrival and departure times and even the expected conditions. The team used tools such as Windy.com to show us what the wind was doing. It was all well planned and clearly communicated, and at no point during the week was I unsure what was happening.

There were lectures and presentations in the lecture theatre too. Before exploring somewhere new, we could learn what we were about to see and why it mattered. The team were just as visible outside those sessions, around the ship during the day and often sitting with guests over meals. It made the whole thing feel far more personal.

Expedition cruising vs mainstream cruising

If there is one mistake I would warn against, it is judging an expedition ship by mainstream cruise standards.

You can’t compare them by counting restaurants, bars and theatres, because you are paying for something else entirely. You are paying for a much smaller ship and far fewer guests. For specialist knowledge around you, and a great deal more time in the places you have come to see. The ship still felt comfortable and premium, it simply wasn’t trying to be the destination.

Who would I recommend AE Expeditions to?

Having now sailed with AE Expeditions on Douglas Mawson, I think they could appeal to far more travellers than people assume.

It suits anyone with a genuine curiosity about where they are going. Active and adventurous travellers, people who love history and culture, nature lovers and keen photographers all get a lot out of it. Solo travellers do particularly well, and there is plenty here for special-interest groups too.

The one I would single out, though, is the experienced cruiser looking for something completely different. If you have done plenty of mainstream cruises and find yourself wondering what comes next, expedition cruising opens up an entirely different way of seeing the world.

What’s included on an AE Expeditions cruise?

One thing I appreciated was how much was already part of the experience. Our AE Expeditions fare on Douglas Mawson covered the excursions, the meals and all of the expedition team’s lectures, briefings and destination knowledge. That meant I wasn’t constantly working out what each activity would cost me once I was onboard.

On our sailing the main extras were gratuities and drinks outside of dinner. Inclusions do differ between voyages and destinations, particularly across the Small Ship, Discovery and Polar Expeditions ranges. Always check what is covered on the itinerary you are considering.

Sustainability and AE Expeditions

Sustainability is a significant part of the wider philosophy here. Greg and Margaret Mortimer founded the company as Aurora Expeditions in 1991. Today it holds Certified B Corporation™ status, reflecting a commitment to verified social and environmental performance, accountability and transparency. It also publishes a biennial Impact Report covering its progress, achievements and future plans.

Science and education are part of the same approach. The ships can act as mobile research platforms, working with scientists to gather data on wildlife, ocean health and climate change. Citizen science programmes let expeditioners contribute to that research directly.

Having spent time onboard, the connection between exploration and education made a lot more sense to me. The idea isn’t simply to show guests somewhere incredible, it is to help them understand the place they are looking at.

Would I sail with AE Expeditions again?

Without a doubt. I boarded knowing expedition cruising was different, but I don’t think I fully understood why until I had experienced it.

It wasn’t one individual thing that made the trip. It was learning about a destination before arriving, and the expedition team sharing what they knew. Discovering Syros when Mykonos couldn’t happen. Watching the sun go down over Rhodes and Santorini. And being surrounded by people who were there because they genuinely wanted to explore.

Are you curious about the world? Do you enjoy discovering somewhere new and learning about the places you visit? If you also don’t mind plans changing when the conditions demand it, AE Expeditions is absolutely worth considering.

As for where I would go next, Svalbard in the Arctic is firmly on my list after this. Seeing polar bears in the wild, exploring somewhere that remote and having the expedition team’s knowledge in a true Arctic setting would be incredible.

I started the week wanting to understand expedition cruising, and finished it wanting to go on another one.

Ready to experience AE Expeditions for yourself?

Does expedition cruising sound like your kind of adventure? Our Paramount Cruises Cruise Experts can help you find the right AE Expeditions voyage, on Douglas Mawson or elsewhere in the fleet. Maybe you are dreaming of Svalbard and the Arctic, or Antarctica, or somewhere else entirely on the map.

Call our Cruise Experts on 020 7947 0272 or complete our online enquiry form to start planning your AE Expeditions adventure.

Greek Islands expedition cruise FAQs

What is expedition cruising?

Expedition cruising puts the destination first. The ships are small, itineraries flex around weather and sea conditions, and a team of historians, naturalists and specialist guides leads your time ashore. Evenings onboard are deliberately relaxed, because guests are there for the places rather than the ship.

Which ports does the AE Expeditions Douglas Mawson itinerary visit?

Ours ran from Crete to Athens. We called at Chania and Agios Nikolaos on Crete, then Rhodes and Santorini, before finishing at Piraeus. Mykonos was on the plan but the sea conditions sent us to Syros instead. Ports vary by sailing, so check the specific itinerary.

Do you need to be fit for the excursions?

Not especially. AE Expeditions grade every excursion so you can see how demanding each one is. They publish the walking distance in advance too, and there is usually a gentler option on the same morning. Lindos is the one to think about, as the climb and the descent both need reasonable footing.

How long are AE Expeditions voyages?

Greek island sailings tend to run from around a week to ten days. The same goes for the rest of the Mediterranean. Polar voyages are longer, with Svalbard itineraries running from around 15 days upwards.

Is AE Expeditions the same as Aurora Expeditions?

Yes. AE Expeditions is part of Aurora Expeditions, the company Greg and Margaret Mortimer founded in 1991. You will still see both names in use, so it is worth knowing they refer to the same operation.

Do AE Expeditions itineraries change?

Sometimes, and by design. Weather, sea state and the captain’s judgement shape the day, and the team always have an alternative ready. Ours changed once in a week, and the replacement day turned out to be a highlight.